The man who taught the Pope how to control Satan

Norman in Wintergreen Gear with Friend

Norman in Wintergreen Gear with Friend

Being in the adventure business has given us the chance to rub shoulders with many bigger-than-life characters who are an inspiration to all of us.  Chief among these is Norman Vaughan whose “Dream big and dare to fail” motto made him the living epitome that attitude means everything.

He started young, training his first dog team at age 12. In 1928, age 22, he became the first American to dogsled Antarctica, crossing 1500 miles of uncharted ice. His crew laid emergency caches for the first-ever air flight over the South Pole, organized by Adm. Richard Byrd. Among the Transantarctic Mountain peaks that Byrd discovered on that flight was one he named, in gratitude to Norman, Mount Vaughan. Nearly 70 years later, at age 88, Vaughan returned to climb his 10,300 ft mountain. And in between, well, where do we start:

  • 1932 Vaughan was the US dogsledding contender at the Lake Placid Olympics, the only time mushing has been in the Games
  • in WWII, Vaughan joined the US Army Air Corp and led numerous dogteam search and rescue mission for pilots whose planes went down in Arctic regions
  • in 1944 (see our “Its Raining Cats and Sled Dogs” blog) Vaughan cooked up a plan with Gen. George Patton to parachute huskies into the Battle of the Bulge to save soldiers stranded in the snow
  • in the mid 50s he wrapped up his military duties  during the Korean War with the rank of Colonel by designing propaganda cartoons which were floated across communist lines on balloons
  • in 1959, just to shake things up a bit, he coached the US polo team at international competitions in Japan
  • in the 1967, as a publicity stunt, he drove a snowmobile from the Arctic Circle in Alaska to Boston
  • in 1977, on Pennsylvania Avenue, he “crashed” Pres. Carter inaugural parade with a dogteam to ensure that Alaska was represented in the event.  His stunt was such a hit that he was invited to “mush” in Pres. Reagan’s 1981 parade as well
Whale Posing for Norman in Antarctica 1928

Whale Posing for Norman in Antarctica 1928

But the most inspiring thing about Norman was that when he was nearly 70, an age when most men settle down to a life of Spandex trousers and shouting at the television, Norman recreated himself.  In need of adventure after the collapse of his second marriage and his third business, he packed a duffel bag with clothing and snowshoes, tucked a $100 bill into his sock and bought a one-way ticket to Alaska.  There he earned free meals by shoveling snow from restaurant sidewalks and raised money for a new do team by cleaning bathrooms at the university. In the years that followed he competed in the 1,000-mile Iditarod Race over a dozen times, organized his own long-distance Alaskan race called the Serum Run and married Carolyn Muegge, a wilderness guide for the Outward Bound schools.

Carolyn was by his side when, in 1994, he returned to Antarctica and, with an artificial hip and battling hypothermia, he reached the top of Mt. Vaughan 3 days before his 89th birthday.

Norman in drag, South Pole

Norman in drag, South Pole

Alaska granted Norman yet another gift in his long string of Forest Gump-style “witness-to-history” experiences. In 1981, when Norman learned that Pope John Paul II would visit Anchorage, he was determined to treat him to a dogsled ride. He cobbled together a sled shielded with bullet-proof glass, convinced the anxious authorities that his scheme was sound and sledded to the airport to pick up his holiness.  As John Paul approached his sled, Norman had an idea. Why don’t you drive the dogs yourself, he said, and gave the Pope the reins.  But before they launched he confided to the Pope that two of the dogs had terrible names and he apologized in advance for offending the Pope if he had to call out to them. One was Satan and the other was Devil.  As Norman recounted, the pope looked at him quizzically then smiled and said, “That’s okay, as long as I’m doing the driving.”
Take a deep breath because there’s more, much of which involves Wintergreen and will be the subject of an upcoming entry!

Wintergreen Sled Dogs Get a Taste of the Tropics

And speaking of “It’s Raining (on) Cats & Sled Dogs,”  we’re pleased to announce that our summer sled dog kennel can now be turned into an instant typhoon on hot days.  With the flip of a switch, our Arctic dogs get a cross-cultural Southeast Asian monsoon experience.

Let it Rain

Let it Rain

The sprinklers are part of a wildfire deterrence system we’ve installed at Wintergreen Dog Sledding Lodge. Lakewater pumps and sprinkler heads protect all the buildings and surrounding forest areas in the event that wildfires encroach on our property.  We’re also thinning brush and volatile balsam trees to reduce the fuel load on the forest floor. It’s all part of the national “Firewise” program to reduce the risk of property loss for
properties in fire-prone places: www.dnr.state.mn.us/firewise.

Oasis of Green in World of Char

Oasis of Green in World of Char

The program is effective. In 2007, our area was devastated by Minnesota’s biggest wildfire in nearly 100 years.  Over 140 homes and cabins along the famed Gunflint Trail were destroyed in a 36,000 acre fire. But the 125 homes with sprinkler systems survived — as oases of green in a world of char.

It’s Raining Cats & Sled Dogs!

About to Launch

About to Launch

Hundreds of sled dogs were pressed into duty during WWII for search and rescue missions throughout Greenland, Canada and Alaska.  But they also saw duty on the Western Front in one of the least-known stories of sled dog heroics that involved one of the most amazing adventurers Wintergreen has ever had the honor of being associated with.

In December 1944 the German Army was making it’s last stand, rolling across France and overwhelming American regiments in its path. Panzer troops drove on through bitter cold and heavy snow that rivaled the Arctic.  When at last their drive was stopped by the bloody fight called the Battle of the Bulge, snows were hip deep.  Motor ambulances found it impossible to rescue injured soldiers and many of the wounded lay dying in the drifts.

Dogteam ambulance

Dogteam ambulance

A colonel with polar expedition experience, Norman Vaughan, sent out a rush call for dog teams. From throughout the Arctic, 209 dogs and their drivers were flown to Toul, France. Meanwhile, Norman experimented with the only option available to get sled dogs to the battle front: parachutes. His superiors nixed the plan and it wasn’t until Gen. Patton himself intervened that Norman was given the go ahead.

By then clearing weather kept the plan from being fully deployed but the operation had set a remarkable record and contributed to the lore of the “war dogs.” In fact, throughout the war, sled dogs were credited with retrieving 150 survivors, 300 casualties and millions of dollars worth of equipment.

Military Dogteam on Patrol

Military Dogteam on Patrol

Air-dropping sled dogs for arctic rescue mission continued after the war as well. In fact, a 1952 exercise in Newfoundland involved air drops without parachutes.  Russians aviators had discovered that in certain arctic wind conditions, cargo planes could throttle back into the wind with full flaps and go into a near stall just above the ground. They experimented with the technique as a means for dropping supplies or even soldiers and dogs without chutes.

During the US Army test runs of this technique with sled dogs, one driver — a crusty, old-timer who cared deeply or his dogs and knew no fear — refused to pitch his dogs out of a plane without a chute unless he tried it first.  And he did, without injury!  His dogs all made the leap from low-flying cargo plane to snowbank without mishap as well.  But he was later court martialed for his stunt under “Section Eight” rules (insanity).  Col. Vaughan intervened on his behalf and got him reinstated.

Parapooch

Parapooch

By the way, if you’re thinking “hmmm…Col. Norman Vaughan…wasn’t he the Alaskan musher who taught to Pope how to drive a dogsled?“  You’re right!  There is lots more to tell about this larger-the-life character who shared one of our most unusual Wintergreen dogsled adventures with us as well as his very last Arctic journey.  Stay tuned or our blog on Stormin’Norman.

Why Do Dogs Eat Their Poop?

Cleaning Up Their Poop

Cleaning Up Their Poop

Ah yes, “coprophagy”  Although that’s not a big problem with Wintergreen’s sled dogs, it is perhaps the 2nd most common “quirky dog behavior” question that we get asked (stay tuned for the 1st in an upcoming blog).

Here’s the evolutionary explanation: Back when dogs were wild and roaming the woods instead of pulling sleds or idling around inside of tiny purses, predators could find a wolf-dog’s den by detecting the smell of poop, specifically the kind left by defenseless, tasty puppies. Puppy feces has a distinct smell because of the high milk content, making it the poop equivalent of a Dove chocolate bar. So, to clean up the evidence and keep predators away, mom would eat it. Dad figured mom was on to something and so the habit stuck for male and females dogs alike.

Other explanations for poop eating includes boredom and just general cleanliness. That might be especially true if he dog is in a confined spot, because leaving it just laying out, well that would be gross, wouldn’t it?

And finally: Herbivores such as rabbits and rodents eat their own poop because their diet of plants is hard to digest efficiently, and they have to make two passes at it to get everything out of the meal. This is equivalent
to a cow chewing its cud. Some poop contains vitamins produced by an animal’s intestinal bacteria and most poop (even yours) has a high percentage of undigested protein.  In fact, the arctic hares we observe on
Wintergreen Arctic Adventures recycle their terds three times and wildlife biologists have confirmed that the nutrient content drops to near zero by the third pass.

Perhaps “coprophagic” animals have just beaten us to the punch on this admirable exercise in simple living!

Wintergreen Team Finds Wooly Mammoth … at Target

Jarkhov's Icy Tomb

Jarkhov's Icy Tomb

Baby Mammoth Heads To Paris.“  That’s not a headline you see every day — at least not since mammoths became extinct about 10,000 year ago.  This week’s press announcement of a frozen prehistoric mammal’s transport from the Russian Arctic to a French research center caught our eye because it involved polar fossil collector Bernard Buigues.  We first learned of him ten years ago on Wintergreen’s backpack expedition across Siberia’s premiere wildlife refuge, Wrangel Island.

Wrangel, an isolated mountain realm in the East Siberian Sea, is home to the Asian arctic’s largest concentrations of polar bears, walrus, snow owls and snow geese.  And because it escaped the ravages of the glacial epochs, Wrangel was also the last realm of wooly mammoths, who were still merrily chewing their cuds on Wrangel’s mossy tundra just 3,700 years ago.  Consequently, Wrangel is happy hunting grounds for archeologists seeking bones and tusks to piece together the story of these mythic 12-foot-tall, 10-ton beasts that once ruled the northern hemisphere.

Lifting Jarkhov

Lifting Jarkhov

On our two-week Wrangel trek, an encounter with one of these researchers, Alexei Tikhonov,  led to a curious exchange. Our daughter Bria, 14 at the time, was excited to tell him about her own encounter with mammoths.  Just prior to our trip, her Ely High School science class had watched the Discovery Channel film “Raising the Mammoth.”  A blockbuster documentary at the time, it explained how Bernard Buigues had allegedly found a ‘holy grail’ in the world of mammoth paleontology — a fully intact adult mammoth.  The film depicted crews painstakingly extracting the mammoth from the Siberian permafrost.  Well, it actually showed them extracting a 23-ton cube of dirt which, in the film’s final nail-biter scene, is wrestled from the ground by a ‘mammoth’ Russian helicopter churning and chugging overhead.  Viewers are left to believe that scientists chose not to expose any of the mammoth’s body until they could thaw it later under controlled conditions.  Two symmetrical tusks protruding from the cube of frozen mud lent authenticity to their claims.

Paul & Sue on Wrangel

Paul & Sue on Wrangel

Upon hearing Bria’s tale, Tikhonov smiled softly at her and said, “Now let me tell you the rest of the story.”  He explained that he too had gotten caught up in the excitement of Buigues’ discovery of what came to be known as the “Jarkov” mammoth.  In fact, he fact worked on the dig, at least until the whole project became a bit suspect.  Buigues had convinced the Discovery Channel that his discovery was so monumental that they sent a charter jet and film crew to Siberia.  But as archeologists including Tikhonov dug ever closer to Jarhov’s entombed carcass, they realized there was little or nothing there.  nonetheless, since millions had been budgeted for the film, the Discovery Channel announced that the show must go on.  And it did.  But not with Tikhonov.  He quit when two symmetrical tusks that had been found at a different site were “glued” to the 23-ton cube that had been chainsawed from the tundra.

Is there anything in the block? We may never know. To this day it sits in Buigues’ ice cave storage facility on Russia’s arctic coast.  He says he’s still waiting the development of suitable technologies that will allow him to thaw the frozen mud block without damaging whatever may be inside it.

In the meantime, Discovery Channel made millions on their film “Raising the Mammoth.” It’s still in circulation, though some scientists have decried this endeavor as a ruse tantamount to that of the “Piltdown Man.”

Jarkhov at Target

Jarkhov at Target

And Jarkov?  Well he did turn up — in a Target Store near our home in Ely, Minnesota.  A few weeks after our return from Wrangel, my wife Susan was shopping for a birthday gift when she spotted a familiar picture on a box containing a stuffed wooly mammoth toy.  There it was — the block of ice with tusks ticking out and a mighty helicopter lifting it from the Siberian tundra.  “Want to the snuggle with Jarkov tonight?” said the slogan on the back of the box, which as marketed by the Discovery Channel.

Our soft, cuddly Jarhov still sits on a display shelf in our lodge, patiently waiting to find out whether her real self sits inside Buigues’ frozen ice lock. Who knows — perhaps she’s the mom of the baby mammoth that’s now on its way to Paris!

Dogs In Space & Other Fun Facts

Laika in Space Capsule

Wow! Do people ever love dogs!  Over 40 million US households have them — and of course we skew those statistics here at Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge with our 75 dogs.  Dogs are the first animals humans domesticated (12,000 years ago).

We were in love with dogs before we had farms or villages or the written word!  Not only have they been our hunting, pulling, packing, playing and protection companions, but now they’re even our heirs: over 1 million Americans have written their dogs into the wills — as the primary beneficiaries!

Dogs share our homes and even a bit of our anatomy: they are the only animals besides humans that have prostate glands (but not appendix). Dog’s also share our food fetish: obesity is their number one health issue. Over their average 11-year life span, we spend about $15,000 to own a dog. Sadly, unwanted dogs face a very different fate: eight million lose their lives in shelters each year due to overpopulation.

From their lone ancestor the wolf (which descended from a small, weasel-like, tree-dwelling creature called Miacis that existed about 40 million years ago), we now have 703 breeds of dogs.  Yet recent DNA research has confirmed they’re still all the same species, canis lupus, and can all interbreed.

It’s no wonder we’re so fond of these fascinating animals.  Here are more fun facts about “man’s best friend:”

Winner of Ugliest Dog Contest

Winner of Ugliest Dog Contest

CELEBRITY DOGS
Dogs were the world’s first space travelers. The Soviets sent 13 into orbit during the Cold War era, starting with a street mongrel named “Laika” on the 1957 Sputnik flight.  Sadly only 8 survived the flights.  These Sputnik missions did nothing to reduce US-Soviet tension. But the dogs did.  JFK’s terrier, Carlie, sired 4 puppies with Laika’s daughter Pushinka, who was presented to the White House by Khrushchev.  Kennedy playfully called them “pupniks.”

Angered by his subject’s distrust of him, a 12th century Nordic king decreed this his dog Suening should rule in his place.  For 3 years, Suening sat on the throne and signed all palace decrees with a paw print.

Adolf Hilter’s closest companion was an Alsatian named Blondi.  In 1945 as Allied troops closed in on his bunker in Berlin, Hitler tested his suicide pills on Blondi.  When Blondi died, Hilter and his girlfriend Eva Braun took the cyanide pills themselves.

The world’s best drug-sniffing dog is Snag, a Labrador that has made 118 drug busts worth over $800 million.  His colleagues Rocky and Barco were so good at patrolling “cocaine alley” on the Tex-Mex border that drug lords put a price of $30,000 on their head.

DOG RECORDS

World's Biggest Dog

World's Biggest Dog

Heaviest dog: Zorba, an English Mastiff, 343 lbs.

Longest lived dog: Bluey, an Australian cattle dog, 29 years.

Tiniest dog: a Yorkie in Blackburn, UK, 4 ounces & 2.5 inches tall when fully grown (about the size of a matchbox).

Fastest dogs: greyhounds, up to 42 mph.

Dogs with most stamina: sled dogs, they can pull over 100 miles per day and exceed Olympic athletes in the their metabolic efficiency.

DOG BEHAVIOR
Dogs turn in circles before lying down on a rug because in the wild this instinctive “wolf” action turns long grass into a bed.

A frightened dog puts his tail between his legs because it cuts off the sent glands in its anal region, a very vulnerable part of the anatomy. Since the anal glands carry personal scents that identify the individual dogs, the tail between the legs action is the dogs equivalent of insecure humans hiding their aces.

Dogs’ strange habit of licking their private parts may appear perverse, but it serves an important purpose. The dog’s genitourinary tract will not function without the stimulation that comes from frequent licking.

Dogs often hesitate before going out in the rain. It’s not because they’re afraid of getting wet, but because the rain amplifies sound and hurts their super-sensitive ears. (They hear sounds 250 yards away that we cannot hear beyond 25 yards.)

DOG TRAINING

Paul with budding Olympic athlete
Paul with budding Olympic athlete

The most important thing you can teach your dog is to sit and stay on command. Any  time you are having behavioral problems with your dog, begin your training by reteaching him to sit and stay.

NEVER punish a puppy for chewing….. just be sure to provide the appropriate objects. Puppies need to chew to stimulate the loss of their baby teeth and to help place their permanent teeth.

If your dog reacts anti-socially toward visitors, put her in another room until she calms down. When you let her out, ignore her. This forces your dog to go to the visitors for social activity.

A dog can suffer from a poor self-image, just like humans. Bolster self-esteem with praise, affection and rewards.

Wow! Do people ever love dogs!  Over 40 million US households have
them — and of course we skew those statistics here at Wintergreen Dogsled
Lodge with our 75 dogs.  Dogs are the first animals humans domesticated
(12,000 years ago).  We were in love with dogs before we had farms or
villages or the written word!  Not only have they been our hunting, pulling,
packing, playing and protection companions, but now they’re even our heirs:
over 1 million Americans have written their dogs into the wills — as the
primary beneficiaries!

Dogs share our homes and even a bit of our anatomy: they are the
only animals besides humans that have prostate glands (but not appendix).
Dog’s also share our food fetish: obesity is their number one health issue.
Over their average 11-year life span, we spend about $15,000 to own a dog.
Sadly, unwanted dogs face a very different fate: eight million lose their
lives in shelters each year due to overpopulation.

From their lone ancestor the wolf (which descended from a small,
weasel-like, tree-dwelling creature called Miacis that existed about 40
million years ago), we now have 703 breeds of dogs.  Yet recent DNA research
has confirmed they’re still all the same species, canis lupus, and can all
interbreed.

It’s no wonder we’re so fond of these fascinating animals.  Here are more fun facts about “man’s best friend:”

CELEBRITY DOGS
Dogs were the world’s first space travelers. The Soviets sent 13 into orbit during the Cold War era, starting with a street mongrel named “Laika” on the 1957 Sputnik flight.  Sadly only 8 survived the flights.  These Sputnik missions did nothing to reduce US-Soviet tension. But the dogs did.  JFK’s terrier, Carlie, sired 4 puppies with Laika’s daughter Pushinka, who was presented to the White House by Khrushchev.  Kennedy playfully called them “pupniks.”

Angered by his subject’s distrust of him, a 12th century Nordic king decreed this his dog Suening should rule in his place.  For 3 years, Suening sat on the throne and signed all palace decrees with a paw print.

Adolf Hilter’s closest companion was an Alsatian named Blondi.  In 1945 as Allied troops closed in on his bunker in Berlin, Hitler tested his suicide pills on Blondi.  When Blondi died, Hilter and his girlfriend Eva Braun took the cyanide pills themselves.

The world’s best drug-sniffing dog is Snag, a Labrador that has made 118 drug busts worth over $800 million.  His colleagues Rocky and Barco were so good at patrolling “cocaine alley” on the Tex-Mex border that drug lords put a price of $30,000 on their head.

DOG RECORDS
Heaviest dog: Zorba, an English Mastiff, 343 lbs.

Longest lived dog: Bluey, an Australian cattle dog, 29 years.

Tiniest dog: a Yorkie in Blackburn, UK, 4 ounces & 2.5 inches tall when fully grown (about the size of a matchbox).

Fastest dogs: greyhounds, up to 42 mph.

Dogs with most stamina: sled dogs, they can pull over 100 miles per day and exceed Olympic athletes in the their metabolic efficiency.

DOG BEHAVIOR
Dogs turn in circles before lying down on a rug because in the wild this instinctive “wolf” action turns long grass into a bed.

A frightened dog puts his tail between his legs because it cuts off the sent glands in its anal region, a very vulnerable part of the anatomy. Since the anal glands carry personal scents that identify the individual dogs, the tail between the legs action is the dogs equivalent of insecure humans hiding their aces.

Dogs’ strange habit of licking their private parts may appear perverse, but it serves an important purpose. The dog’s genitourinary tract will not function without the stimulation that comes from frequent licking.

Dogs often hesitate before going out in the rain. It’s not because they’re afraid of getting wet, but because the rain amplifies sound and hurts their super-sensitive ears. (They hear sounds 250 yards away that we cannot hear beyond 25 yards.)

DOG TRAINING
The most important thing you can teach your dog is to sit and stay on command. Any time you are having behavioral problems with your dog, begin your training by reteaching him to sit and stay.

NEVER punish a puppy for chewing….. just be sure to provide the appropriate objects. Puppies need to chew to stimulate the loss of their baby teeth and to help place their permanent teeth.

If your dog reacts anti-socially toward visitors, put her in another room until she calms down. When you let her out, ignore her. This forces your dog
to go to the visitors for social activity.

A dog can suffer from a poor self-image, just like humans. Bolster self-esteem with praise, affection and rewards.

The Most Amazing Sled Dog in Polar History

Meet the world’s most accomplished sled dog! We first met him in spring 1985. We called him Sam. He went on to make canine history in a big way.

Paul feeding Sam

Paul feeding Sam

We were on a 5-month, 5,000-mile dogsled trek across North America — from Duluth, MN, to Barrow, AK, the northernmost village in the USA. Our team, including Will Steger, 3 friends and myself Paul Schurke, were training for our successful 1986 attempt to complete the first confirmed dogsled trek to the North Pole without resupply. That’s me in the picture feeding Sam on that trek.

DEW Line Station

DEW Line Station

The 2nd half of our training mission found us sledding the coast of the Beaufort Sea. Every hundred miles, we’d come upon a radar station where we’d stop in for a coffee break. For over 30 years, these Distant Early Warning (DEW Line) stations, vestiges of the Cold War, kept watch for Soviet bombers enroute to North America over the polar ice cap. But no blips ever showed up on their radar screens so, needless to say, these stations were staffed by a very bored crew.

The staff at one of the stations enjoyed a very special distraction. Every day after dinner, a feral dog would come wandering in from the blowing snow of the surrounding arctic tundra and wait by the kitchen window for leftovers. No one knew his story — he had just shown up one day. And although he was too wild and cagey to be a station pet, he had certainly become the station’s mascot.

When it came time for us to continue towards Barrow by ski and dogsled, he followed us. We felt bad having inadvertently ‘lured’ him away from his adoptive home. We hoped he might turn back. But day by day, there he was ‘shadowing’ us some distance behind. Richard Weber, the top skier in our crew, circled back on skis while we dogsledded along to try his luck at befriending Sam.

His efforts paid off. Sam drew closer to us and Richard was occasionally able to feed him out of his hand. One day a wheel dog on our team needed a rest break. We turned it loose for the day, thus leaving an empty spot among the line of paired dogs on our 12-dog, tandem-hitch team.

Then something magical happened. Sam sidled over into that empty spot and ran along with the team — in position but unharnessed. It was a “eureka!” moment for us. We now knew Sam was a long-lost sled dog, perhaps from a Yukon trapper’s team.

When we slipped a harness on him, he pulled with gusto. In the days that followed Richard tried him in different positions and one day, just for fun, he put Sam in lead. Much to our astonishment, we discovered that Sam was a well-trained, voice-command lead dog.

He led all the way to Barrow, Alaska. He became a very friendly dog and ranked among the most enthusiastic on our team. A year later, on May 1, 1986, he was in lead position when we reached our goal of dogsledding to the North Pole without resupply, achieving what National Geographic called a “landmark in polar exploration.” Then on December 12, 1989, Sam was in lead position again when Will and his International Trans-Antarctic Expedition Team arrived at the South Pole.

Sam and team at South Pole

Sam and happy team at the North Pole

Upon reaching the South Pole, Sam made history by becoming the first dog to reach both ends of the earth. He’s also the only dog who ever will: in the years following that trek an international treaty designed to protect sea mammals from introduced diseases put an end to the dogsled era in Antarctica by banning all non-native animal species from the continent.

Sam lived out his life with friends of ours here in Ely, Minnesota, just down the road from Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge. We often think of him and his amazing date with destiny at a DEW Line station on the Beaufort Sea.

Ghost Ships of High Arctic

The Bermuda Triangle holds nothing over the high arctic when it comes to mysteries at sea. In fact, two of Wintergreen’s favorite arctic adventure haunts, Russia’s Barents Sea and Canada’s Queen Elizabeth Islands are sites of those mysteries.

Sir Hugh Willoughby

Sir Hugh Willoughby

The first involved Sir Hugh Willoughby, a British sea captain who set sail on the Bona Esperanza in 1553 in hopes of finding a trade route to tap the riches of the Orient. His goal was to be the first to negotiate the Northeast Passage, the fabled waterway that connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans over the top of Russia. His company was presciently called the “Mysterie of Merchant Adventurers for Discoverie of Regions Unknowen.”

The journey came to an abrupt halt that fall when his ship became locked in the pack ice of the Barents Sea, just east of the Svalbard Islands where Wintergreen’s Norwegian Arctic trips take place. Willoughby’s crew was short of food and fuel and their clothing was woefully inadequate for the brutal cold. Come January, they were still alive, but just barely and then…all was silent.

Two years later, Russian fisherman found the ship helplessly adrift in the polar sea. Going aboard they found Sir Hugh, frozen solid, seated at his table with journal open and pen grasped in his rigid fingers. Scattered about the vessel were the forms of all 40 crew members. Russia’s sailors attempted to tow the vessel with bodies in place, a vast floating coffin, back to England. But it foundered at sea and all was lost — except for the eye-witness accounts of the Russian fisherman which are contained in a report that somehow ended up in the archives of the Venetian embassy in London.

Ship Becomes Locked in the Pack Ice

Ship Becomes Locked in the Pack Ice

The report concludes the men were killed by carbon monoxide fumes from the sooty sea coal they furiously shoveled into their stoves to keep the cold at bay. Or at least that theory would account for the bizarre observations of the fisherman who boarded the ghost ship. In addition to finding Sir Hugh fast frozen to his writing desk, they found “others frozen in place on the mess desk, platter in hand, spoon in mouth; others opening a locker, and others in various postures like statues, as if they had been adjusted and placed in those attitudes.” Sir Hugh’s last diary entry concerned an island he discovered northeast of Svalbard. But “Willoughby Land” has never since been found.

JFK Jr Under President's Desk
JFK Jr Under President’s Desk

The second ghost ship resulted from a British Naval attempt exactly 300 years later to negotiate the Northwest Passage, the fabled waterway that connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans over the top of Canada. When it too became locked in the pack ice, the HMS Resolute under Captain Edward Belcher was abandoned in spring 1854. Two years later the crew-less ship was found by an American whaling crew — drifting along some 1200 miles eastwards of where it had been abandoned.

The Americans towed the ghost ship to Connecticut. They happened to arrive in the states at a time when Britain and America were at the brink of war over trade issues. To forestall altercations, a US Senator proposed that the Resolute be refurbished and sent back to Britain as a gesture of peace and goodwill. The ploy worked, the tensions eased and the HMS Resolute saw service again for another 20 years.

When it was retired in 1879, Queen Victoria returned the favor of the gift by having a desk made from the ship’s timbers that she presented to President Hayes. That desk has been in the White House ever since. In 1960 Jackie Kennedy selected it as her husband’s desk for the Oval Office, where it sits to this day.

Barrack Obama at Resolute Desk

Barrack Obama at Resolute Desk

The Resolute desk shares its name with the high arctic village, Resolute Bay, that now exists in the cove where the ship was abandoned. This village, the northernmost community in Canada, has served as the base for many of Wintergreen’s high arctic adventures, including our treks to the geographic North Pole, the magnetic North Pole and our dogsled adventures across Ellesmere Island.

The 500 residents of Resolute Bay take pride in the fact that the village’s namesake desk serves the American presidency. And with a tart twist of humor, they note wryly that since this very desk was the scene of Pres. Clinton’s trysts with Monica Lewinsky, it has indeed served many ‘heads’ of state.

Summer Adventure Travel Tours at Wintergreen

or What Happens At Wintergreen in the Summer?

Canoe Country Fun

Canoe Country Fun

Well, when we’re not sitting around the hacienda sipping mint juleps with the sled dogs, we enjoy some of the most spectacular canoe adventures the world has to offer — right here in our back yard!  And you can too.  A couple of openings remain available on our pioneering venture on northern Manitoba’s historic Grass River July 31-Aug 8 and our walleye safari to lunker heaven in Ontario’s Wabakimi Wilderness Aug 14-20.

Both trips are offered through our non-profit affiliate www.wildernessinquiry.org.

Paul Schurke and his college classmate Greg Lais started WI during their senior year at St. John’s University to offer adventures for disabled persons.  Well, actually it was a thinly veiled strategy for them to meet like-minded, adventurous hot babes in the woods — and they did: Susan Hendrickson Schurke and Patty Thurber Lais!  For over 30 years, they’ve enjoyed great trips around the world with persons who are blind or deaf, or use wheelchairs or crutches.

Grass River Falls

Grass River Falls

This summer Paul and Sue (and their entire family: Bria 24, Peter 18, Berit 16) will be leading the July 31-Aug Grass River trip in Northern Manitoba. This spectular route has it all: Canada’s finest ancient Indian rock paintings, the province’s 3 most resplendent waterfalls, the region’s top-rated walleye lake, caribou, lynx, moose and extraordinary concentrations of wildflowers. Plus it’s an easy trip — a flatwater, far north canoe adventure with heaps of highlights and portages that are few, far between, & short! For more details:  www.wildernessinquiry.org/grassriver

Walleye Fishing

Walleye Fishing

Following that trip, Paul and Greg are headed back to one of their favorite haunts: Northern Ontario’s Wabakimi Wilderness. After several years of exploring this paddler’s paradise, we’ve discovered the “honey hole,” the best walleye fishing anywhere! But be forewarned, you may have trouble keeping an eye on your bobber with the stunning scenery tugging on your attention.  We’ll be fishing pools in the fabled Kopka Gorge, renowned as the most dramatic topography in the canoe country.  And when you’ve had your fill of fish, you can feast on blueberries — they’re everwhere.  For details: www.wildernessinquiry.org/wabakimifish

Running Rapids

Running Rapids

As with all Wilderness Inquiry trips, these are open to persons with or without disabilities. Given the diverse social mix of our participants (who come from all walks of life and have wild stories to tell), you can look forward to fascinating campfire chatter.  You’ll also enjoy some birthday cake — Paul will be celebrating his 55th birthday this summer.  He and his family celebrated his 50th birthday in a very different place, with friends in northern Sweden who operate the famous “Ice Hotel.” — a very seasonal lodging facility made entirely of ice. You might want to save this photo of it as your screensaver for muggy August days in your office. Or cool off with us on a great canoe adventure!

Sweden's Ice Bar

Sweden's Ice Bar

Wintergreen’s Chef Bernard Now Offers Gourmet Cuisine Summer and Winter for Adventure Travellers

Wintergreen's Chef Bernard

Wintergreen’s Master Chef Bernard Herrmann is one of the world’s top 100 French chefs, was knighted by the French premiere for his culinary excellence and helped launched Julia Child’s career by serving as one of her sponsors for admittance to Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. He has worked at some of the most exclusive restaurants in the United States. So what’s a guy like this doing spending his winters at Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge and his summers at the 24-seat Mantel House restaurant at the ‘end of the road’ in Ely?

“I came here for the good life,” he says. “People here are down to earth. There’s no showing off. They don’t come up here to shine and be flashy. My telephone recording says, `I’m either hunting, fishing, skiing or hiking and God knows when I will be back.’”

Chef Bernard Francois Herrmann comes from a long line of family chefs: His grandfather, father, brother, sister, nephew and cousin all were chefs. He was born in 1942, in the back of a restaurant in Alsace, France. “I was born at quarter to 12. Dad was upset because it was just before lunch.”

At age 14 he apprenticed with master chef Pierre Gaertner at the Armes De France Restaurant, a two-star Michelin restaurant in Ammerschwir, Alsace, France. After a stint in the French army, he continued his apprenticeship under his father, then owner of the l’Hostellerie d’Alsace in Cernay.

After moving to the United States in 1965, Herrmann first took a job cooking at the Plaza Hotel in New York. A few years later, he accepted a position as head chef of the Le Cygne Restaurant, which, under his direction, became a three-star New York Times restaurant. He then moved around, running kitchens at a private club and a luxury resort and eventually landed a position as
executive chef of the Carlyle and Meridien Hotel in Houston, where he worked with Jacques Maximin, one of the world’s greatest chefs. From there, Herrmann went on to Dallas and started working with Pam Freeman. Her
husband’s great grandparents had come from Finland to settle in Ely and their homestead had become a summer cabin for Pam and her husband Fletcher. They in turn introduced Bernard to the ‘good life’ in the beautiful northwoods.

In fall 1997, Bernard decided he’d had enough of the frenetic corporate cooking scene and retired to Ely. After getting settled in, he began looking around for something to do. As Paul Schurke explains, an amazing bit of serendipity took over from there:

“Just a month or so before our dogsled trips were to begin, we learned that our seasonal cook of many years had been offered a year-round position at the Grand Ely Lodge. We were happy for her but it left us in lurch. We tried our luck with a ‘help wanted’ ad in the local paper although we didn’t expect much response. An hour or two after the Ely Echo came out that Monday, our program administrator Kate called me from our office in town to say that some guy with a strong accent had stopped by to apply for the job. Furthermore, she said, he had this incredible resume. She suggested I come in and talk to him myself to see if this was all for real. Well it was and Wintergreen and Ely have been very blessed that he’s been here ever since!”

A few years after arriving in Ely, Bernard and Pam opened their Mantel House restaurant in a beautiful old home in the middle of town. It’s been closed the past few summers but they’re pleased to announce that it’s re-opening this summer and will be offering 4-course gourmet dinners with French wines every Thursday, Friday and Saturday June though August. If you needed an excuse to visit Ely this summer, this is it! Call 365-7659 for reservations.

For Bernard, food is key to living a good life. One of his missions at Wintergreen and at the Mantel House is educating people about good food and taking the time to enjoy it. “When I go to France, we sit there for four or five hours eating,” he says. “And while you are eating, you talk about what you are going to eat the next day.”

Herrmann’s passion for food doesn’t mean that he is always four-star serious. He has a delightful sense of humor, and it’s obvious he’s happy to be doing what he loves; cooking great food and enjoying the great outdoors.

Chef Bernard's Blueberry Salad

He finds the lifestyle in Ely what he’s been longing for. “All my life, I work for the customer, but you don’t feel the customer,” he says. “Here people are my friends. And I finally have my dream of simplicity. I can have a pickup truck, I can dress in jeans on my day off, and I can go fishing whenever I like.”

So what will you enjoy for dinner on your Wintergreen dogsled vacation? Here are a few of the entre options Bernard offered our guests last season: Chicken Basquaise with Roasted Vegetables, Sautéed Beef Tenderloin Filet in Merlot Sauce, Baked Walleye with Shrimps & Tarragon Sauce, Vegetable Medley according to market. Dessert options included: Chocolate Mousse, White
Chocolate Bread Pudding with Raspberry Sauce, Floating Islands, Creme Caramel. Bon Appétit!

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